Venice is one of our all time favourite cities (we have a few!). However, because of its popularity and the very narrow calle (streets), it can sometimes feel very crowded. Knowing how to avoid those crowds is crucial to falling in love with this magical and mystifying city.

Here are some of our favourite places which we visit every time. Not the well known landmarks which you will find in all guide books, but rather smaller more intimate venues discovered during multiple visits over the past 20 years.

Venice is a city with many day trippers (don’t ask me how they think they can experience it in just one day!), so rising very early to walk its streets will reward you with ability to soak in her rich history evident at every turn, with few people around. The same can be said for wandering the calle post dinner – also very romantic!

One other very important piece of information is understanding the address numbering system – it is complicated. Venice is split into 6 districts known as sestieri and each sestieri is numbered in one long consecutive sequence. Venice’s random and informal street names are in fact not part of this official address system – often just ‘San Marco 1257’ – so to identify a specific location, it is helpful to acquire more information, like a piazza name or some other geographical marker. A good map may help, but give yourself time to get anywhere and do be prepared to get lost!

Another thing to note, is that if you visit Venice during the Autumn/Winter months, usually around October – February, you may encounter the Aqua Alta. If there is a particularly high tide (often associated with a full moon), the sirens will sound a warning to be prepared. Piazza San Marco is one of the lowest points in the city, so this is usually totally engulfed with the water that rises through the drains. The local municipality erects tables (known as Passerelle) for people to walk on, but gumboots are much more useful (sometimes small hotels supply them). One very memorable Christmas Eve with our children a few years ago, we did all our food shopping at Mercato Rialto in 15cm of water – it is an experience one never forgets!

Things to do,

Get lost and Wander
Firstly, you need to abandon the feeling of worrying about getting lost. This will most definitely happen on many occasions, but by being lost you will encounter your biggest discoveries. Spend a significant time just wandering, with no fixed agenda and no specific destination. We often just do this for hours, exploring an area far from the crowds. We will stop for an espresso in one bar, then a Spritz Aperol (Venice is where Spritz Aperol was born) in another and then enjoy a long lazy lunch in a little trattoria. Some of our favourite days have been spent like this.

Arrive by water taxi
If you are arriving into Venice Airport, although not cheap, a water taxi directly from the terminal, is a magical way to arrive at your hotel. It gives you a sense of perspective and an appreciation for the lifeblood of this city – its waterways.

Ride a Vaporetto along the grand canal
We rarely take the Vaporetto in Venice as it is often quicker to walk, and walking allows one the added benefit of uncovering discoveries along the way. However, the one exception to this is a journey down the Grand Canal on Vaporetto #1. Sit outside in the front section and stay on it for the entire journey to soak in the magnificent architecture and to gain an appreciation for the ingenuity of building a city on water for protection against your enemies.

Visit the Binnale in the Giardini Festival  
The world renown Venice Biennale oscillates each year between a focus on either art or architecture. Although it is in several venues across the city, the main one in the beautiful Giardini, with giant ancient trees and a mood of peace and calm, is a spectacular place to visit, particularly on a hot Venetian day. Each year the Biennale spans for 6 months and we love meandering each country’s pavilion. In 2019, the theme of the Art based Biennale is “May you live in Interesting times” and it runs from May – November.

Explore the island of Burano
The little island of Burano is an easy Vaporetto ride from Venice and totally worth a visit. It is known as ‘the lace island’ for its long tradition of hand made lace and you will still find elderly women making examples of their exquisite lace in the shops which sell the product. The island is also renown for it rows of brightly coloured houses – pink, blue, orange & yellow – all in a row – it is a visual delight!!

See a production at the LA FENICE
La Fenice Opera House Campo San Fantin is Venice’s famous Opera House, La Fenice has burnt down three times in its 225 year history, so its name, translated as ‘The Phoenix’ is particularly apt. Over the years we have been to many productions here and they are always of exceptional quality. It is also one of the few Opera venues where many patrons still ‘dress up’ – a lovely tradition!

EAT & DRINK

CICCHETTI & VINO
In the late afternoon, all across the city, Venetians socialise & relax in small barcari (bars) to share an aperitivo and eat cicchetti. Each bar specialises in particular varieties of these tiny bite size snacks. Barcari are traditionally standing bars, however some a few tables to sit at. A good way to experience this very Venetian tradition is to join a small walking tour with a local - they will introduce you to the best.

BAR ARCO
San Polo, 436, 30125
We often stop at this little bar for an Aperitivo and Cicchetti. The locals love it and with exceptionally good cicchetti you will also. It is in its 4th generation of the same family so they must be doing something right! Arrive reasonably early – around 6pm

CA D’ORO ALL VEDOVA
Ramo Ca' d'Oro, 3912, 30121
Another great bacaro for cicchetti – in particular their polpette (meatballs). This place is frequented by locals and is one of the oldest barcari in Venice.

ALLA ZUCCA
San Croce, 1762, 30135
This small trattoria with an emphasis on vegetable dishes, is one of my favourite restaurants anywhere across the world. It is very unassuming with 1970’s wood panelled walls, and can be very tricky to find, but do persevere as the food is absolutely delicious! I particularly go for their Flan di Zucca (Pumpkin flan) with fresh grated pecorino cheese. Do book in advance as it always very busy.

MERCATO DI RIALTO
Food Markets are always a favourite of ours and this one is exceptional. Gorgeous, brightly coloured fruit & vegetable and magnificent large fish abound – local restauranteurs also shop here and it is a bustling place to visit early morning (closes around 1pm). It is located just over the Rialto Bridge, Opens around 8am and is closed on Sunday.

DON’T ORDER PIZZA

Food in Italy is very regional and as Pizza comes from Naples you will not find the best versions in Venice. Further to this, there is a law which prevents wood fired ovens in Venice (due to risk of fire), and there is little chance of great pizza without a wood fired oven…. so best to avoid altogether.

DO ORDER SQUID INK CUTTLEFISH

The inky black appearance of this very local dish makes it intriguing (or even slightly intimidating) even before you experience the delicious taste of the sea. It is very Venetian and traditionally is served either by itself or with polenta, which is also a very Venetian dish.

MUSEUMS

PEGGY GUGENEHIM MUSEUM Dorsoduro, 701-704, 30123
Wandering around this museum located directly on the Grand Canal, Peggy’s presence is palpable, and when you learn that she lived in this superb, reasonably low key house (albeit in a stunning building in an equally stunning location) for many years, it makes sense. Art from early to mid 20th century abounds in a space that is intimate and engaging. It is easy to while away at least half a day in this beautiful canal side location.

PUNTA DELLA DOGANA – Dorsoduro, 2, 30123 Venezia
I particularly love this museum for the exceptionally clever way in which Japanese architect Tadao Ando reimagined it when French billionaire Francois Pinault signed a 33year agreement with the Venetian government to convert it to a museum to showcase both his art and visiting collections. Located on the triangular piece of land where the Grand Canal meets the Giudecca Canal this building which was originally the city’s Custom house, is a truly spectacular space that houses an eclectic art collection. Totally worth visiting!

SCULOA DI SAN ROCCO - San Polo, 3052, 30125
Sculoa Grande di San Rocco is a lay confraternity founded in 1478 that houses the most beautiful Tintoretto pictorial cycle illustrating episodes from the Old & New Testaments.  The over 60 paintings are preserved in their original setting. It is the only Scuole Grandi to have survived the fall of the republic. 

VISIT A SQUERO AND GONDOLA MUSEUM – We always like experiences that typify exactly the city on is visiting and what says Venice more than Gondolas? These wooden boats are meticulously detailed to achieve the ability to be rowed on one side only and by one person. Only a few squeros (boat building yard) remain in the city and a visit to one of them is quintessentially Venitian. This is not super easy to organise however, if you are coming on one of our conferences, we organise this as part of our Social Activities, otherwise you will possibly find something online.